Daphne; giving Joan Holloway a lesson in doing it cooperate style.
Friday, 16 September 2011
Saturday, 3 September 2011
You cant raise the dead
We all understand that fashion is largely driven by a handful of powerful conglomerates. LVMH, PPR Gucci group and Richemont to name a few. We also understand what drives these companies. Billions of dollars. The luxury goods market is one of the strongest and fasting growing in the world, with expansion into asia reflecting the thriving economic powerhouses of the Eastern world.
Bernard Arnault,CEO of LVMH, is the 7th Richest man in the world. And the wealthiest businessman in France. The couture houses and ateliers which once dressed the European social elite and now household names; with "luxury' perfumes being sold alongside groceries.
Big business has in many respects ensured the survival of these houses, whilst simultaneously tearing them of their values, heritage and identity. Its a catch 22.
Hermes, which has perhaps faired better than many houses; surviving two world wars as well licensing and outsourcing at the hands of "the men in suits", once had stores in just Paris and Cannes. Interestingly Hermes' signature orange is owed to the war. As Orange card was the only colour available. It now has over 400 Boutiques in every corner of the earth. Whilst still embodying the definition of luxury, now with a global retail and brand presence equal to the likes of Coke-cola.
The past few years has seen the resurrection of some of the most legendary of couture houses. To me, the idea of reanimating long shuttered houses seems completely redundant from the perspective of design. And of course it is, but as private equity investors mangle as much money out of fashion as possible; dead brands provide the perfect foundation as the once legendary names still linger and exude their prestige. And in many respects the greatest prestige of all, heritage.
Charles Worth puzzles me. No necessarily a household name and somewhat of a textbook name to fashion students/ enthusiasts. The House closed in 1958 long after the death of its creator. Reestablished last year, The Current collection is at the helm of Chambre Syndicale alumnus Giovanni Bedli, designing both Couture and ready to wear. I don't wish to and nor am I at a position to question or criticise the work of Bedli but the whole idea of working under a name which dressed the imperial courts of the late 19th century seems baffling.
These conglomerates should be creating the Lanvin's and Vionette's of tomorrow. Not attempting to breath life into once great houses.
Bernard Arnault,CEO of LVMH, is the 7th Richest man in the world. And the wealthiest businessman in France. The couture houses and ateliers which once dressed the European social elite and now household names; with "luxury' perfumes being sold alongside groceries.
Big business has in many respects ensured the survival of these houses, whilst simultaneously tearing them of their values, heritage and identity. Its a catch 22.
Hermes, which has perhaps faired better than many houses; surviving two world wars as well licensing and outsourcing at the hands of "the men in suits", once had stores in just Paris and Cannes. Interestingly Hermes' signature orange is owed to the war. As Orange card was the only colour available. It now has over 400 Boutiques in every corner of the earth. Whilst still embodying the definition of luxury, now with a global retail and brand presence equal to the likes of Coke-cola.
The past few years has seen the resurrection of some of the most legendary of couture houses. To me, the idea of reanimating long shuttered houses seems completely redundant from the perspective of design. And of course it is, but as private equity investors mangle as much money out of fashion as possible; dead brands provide the perfect foundation as the once legendary names still linger and exude their prestige. And in many respects the greatest prestige of all, heritage.
Charles Worth puzzles me. No necessarily a household name and somewhat of a textbook name to fashion students/ enthusiasts. The House closed in 1958 long after the death of its creator. Reestablished last year, The Current collection is at the helm of Chambre Syndicale alumnus Giovanni Bedli, designing both Couture and ready to wear. I don't wish to and nor am I at a position to question or criticise the work of Bedli but the whole idea of working under a name which dressed the imperial courts of the late 19th century seems baffling.
These conglomerates should be creating the Lanvin's and Vionette's of tomorrow. Not attempting to breath life into once great houses.
Some of the worlds greatest young talent will be showcased at Somerset House in just a few weeks time and the world will flock to fashion week once again. This incredible concentration of talent needs to be nurtured. They are the Vionettes and Lanvin's of the future... if the right financial support is there.
After all, you can't raise the dead.
After all, you can't raise the dead.
The Buckle Dynasty
Some are born great, others have Butchers shops thrust upon them...
 |
| Papa and Grandpapa. Service with a, false, smile |
When Jackie Kennedy married Aristotle Onassis she received $3 million for the privileged. When he died she was entitled to $150,000 a year for the rest of her life. Better than that? She married into the Onassis empire.
As I member of the Buckle Dynasty, I receive the occasional pork pie and eventual crippling death duty.
I'm of the opinion she faired up slightly better.
Who said the age of empire was dead?
Friday, 2 September 2011
Diana Vreeland
Do it like Diana, do it like a dude.
"You've gotta have style. It helps you get down the stairs. It helps you get up in the morning. It's a way of life."
So right yet so...
On the subject of taste, sometimes what we know is bad, only makes us enjoy it more for that exact reason.
In the same way that cigarettes are bad for your health; arguably as is musical theatre for your cultural wellbeing. But then who doesn't love dancing nuns? And where else can you find that brand of tits and feathers glamour that we pretend not to love for the sake of our own intellectual vanity?
For you, Bette Midler.
In the same way that cigarettes are bad for your health; arguably as is musical theatre for your cultural wellbeing. But then who doesn't love dancing nuns? And where else can you find that brand of tits and feathers glamour that we pretend not to love for the sake of our own intellectual vanity?
For you, Bette Midler.
So I admit...
I'm singing Broadway and I love it.
I'm singing Broadway and I'm proud.
You can keep your Springsteen.
Shove your Chaka.
I really don't care for that kind of kaka.
Ethel, Liza, Chita, that's my crowd, my crowd!
I'm singing Broadway and I'm proud.
You can keep your Springsteen.
Shove your Chaka.
I really don't care for that kind of kaka.
Ethel, Liza, Chita, that's my crowd, my crowd!
Thursday, 1 September 2011
Go Western
Bruce Webber for Harpers Bazaar
RRL ranch Colorado: L'art de vivre.
Ralph, Ricky, David, Andrew and Dylan...
As well as various Racoons and other mammals.
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